Edmonds Eggs

We’re a small group of friends based in Mead, WA, who share a big love for all things chicken!

After a few too many disappointing experiences trying to buy chicks locally, we decided to join forces and offer something a little different for the Spokane area — healthy, happy, well-cared-for birds raised with heart.

We take chicken keeping seriously (and joyfully!). Our flocks are part of the family, and their health and happiness come first. Every bird is raised with care — clean coops, quality feed, vitamins, and plenty of fresh herbs, fruits, and veggies. In return, our breeders reward us with the sweetest little chicks to share with you!

Local pickup only — we don’t ship chicks. Almost all of our live animal sales are day-old chicks; it’s very rare for us to have off-heat juveniles or adult birds available.

2026 Hatching Season: March-June.

Send us a message to join our email list to get a little “peep” before our chicks go live! 🐥

Why We Teamed Up

We decided to join forces because our values just clicked — honesty and integrity are what guide our businesses.

We’ll always be upfront with you. Nothing in the chicken world is ever 100% certain, but we believe in keeping things clear and honest so you always know what you’re getting.

What Is S.O.P. and Why Does It Matter?

S.O.P. stands for Standard of Perfection — basically the rulebook breeders use to set goals for each breed.
We do our best to follow those standards, though our focus isn’t necessarily on show-quality birds. Our goal is a good balance of quality and affordability (and honestly, we often spend way more on our breeding lines than we ever charge for their chicks!). We also make sure to only hatch from mature hens that are laying full-sized (not pullet) eggs. It’s one step we take that sets us apart from some breeders.

The Reality of Breeding

Even with all the care in the world, sometimes little surprises pop up as birds grow. Simple things like sprigs or split wings are easy to spot and remove from breeding, but other traits — like body shape, feather color, or hidden recessive genes — can stay tucked away until a bird is fully mature/bred.

Not every chick that hatches will be breeder quality, and that’s just part of it. The important thing is understanding what you’re getting — so never be shy about asking questions! We’re always happy to talk chickens.

If you’re after S.O.P/show level birds, it’s always a good idea to ask breeders about their goals and take a close look at their birds. Sometimes, especially when we’re bringing in new lines, a few little surprises show up — maybe a feather that’s the wrong color or something cosmetically that's minor. If that bird shines in other ways (egg color, personality, autosexing traits, etc.), we may keep working with it until we find the perfect replacement, so if your goal is show quality, make sure you ask us about the specific breed you're interested in.

Our Promise to You

You can count on us to be open and honest every step of the way. We want you to feel confident — and leave happy!

Ask us about eating and hatching eggs! (FCFS basis only)

-Eating eggs: $5/doz

-Barnyard mix hatching eggs: $12/doz

-*Purebred Hatching Eggs: $50/doz

*Only available when we run out of incubator space or are done hatching for the season

🐣 How to Care for Your New Chicks

Congratulations on your new babies! We hope you get as much joy from raising them as we do from hatching them.
Below are some tried-and-true tips that have worked well for us over the years — but remember, every chicken keeper has their own way of doing things, and that’s okay!

Brooder Heat & Temperature

Baby chicks can’t regulate their body temperature until they’re fully feathered (around 6 weeks old). They need a steady, draft-free heat source and enough room to move away if they get too warm.

We recommend an adjustable heat plate for most of the year. During the cold months (early spring, late fall, winter), if chicks are in an unheated area such as a garage, you can add a carefully secured heat lamp — but only with very close supervision since lamps pose a serious fire hazard.

Suggested temperature guide:

Week 1 → 95°F
Week 2 → 90°F
Week 3 → 85°F
Week 4 → 80°F
Week 5 → 75°F
Week 6 → 70°F — chicks can usually go outside without heat if fully feathered and nighttime temps stay above freezing.

If it’s still dipping below freezing, keep them inside until 8 weeks old, weaning off heat by weeks 6–7 so they can acclimate naturally.

⚠️ Avoid giving adult hens or older chicks supplemental heat once acclimated. The only time we use minimal heat in winter is during extreme cold (below 0°F) to prevent frostbite. Birds that rely on heat struggle if the power goes out.

How to read chick behavior:

Loud peeping → “I’m cold or scared!”
Piling together → “Too cold!”
Wings spread / panting → “Too hot!”
Quiet, relaxed, sleeping → “Just right!”

Giving Chicks to a Broody Hen

Each hen is different, and not all will accept new babies — even their own. The best method we’ve found is to tuck the chicks under her at night, removing any eggs she’s sitting on. By morning, she usually believes they’re hers!

Observe closely for several minutes to ensure she accepts them, and check again the next day. If she’s gentle and protective, you can let her handle the heating duties. Just make sure feed and water are easily accessible.

🐥 Tip: Newly hatched chicks can’t jump more than an inch or two, so keep mom and babies on the ground for the first couple of weeks.
Broody hens are most likely to accept chicks that are less than 5 days old — the younger, the better.

Feeding

Chicks need a high-quality chick starter feed until about 16 weeks old (check your feed tag for exact timing).

For the first 6 weeks, skip treats and table scraps — their digestive systems are still developing.
If you do offer small extras, provide chick grit to help them digest it.
Medicated feed (usually with amprolium) is only recommended if you’ve had issues with coccidiosis on your property.
Clean, fresh water at all times is essential!

Use a shallow chick waterer for the first couple of weeks to prevent drowning. If using a larger base, add marbles or small stones to the rim for safety.

💧 Helpful tip: Chicks love to scratch and fling bedding into everything! Once they’re tall enough, raise feed and water a few inches off the floor to keep things cleaner.

Bedding

We’ve found fine pine shavings work best. They’re absorbent, soft, and safe.
Avoid slick surfaces like cardboard or newspaper — chicks can slip and develop splay leg.

🚫 Never use cedar shavings! The oils and aroma are toxic to chickens.

We’ve also tried straw and hemp, but some chicks pecked and ate it, which didn’t end well. Choose something soft, non-slippery, and easy to clean — and always make sure your brooder material won’t melt or ignite near the heat source.

Pasty Butt

It’s very common for chicks under 2 weeks old to get “pasty butt”, where droppings stick to their vent area. If left untreated, it can block them up and be fatal.

Check your chicks daily. If you notice buildup, gently soften it with warm water or a damp paper towel, and carefully wipe it away. Most chicks outgrow it by 2 weeks old.
(If raised by a mama hen, she usually handles this herself!)

🌿 Tip: We’ve found that offering room-temperature water and adding a small amount of EM-1 or probiotics can help reduce cases of pasty butt, though it might not prevent it completely.

Need Help?

We’re always happy to answer questions about your new additions — never hesitate to reach out! We love knowing our chicks are thriving in wonderful new homes. ❤️